Frequently Asked Questions

 When is it safe to begin outdoor planting in the spring?

As soon as the ground is thawed and there is little or no chance of a significant freeze in the forecast. Because the weather is so variable in our area, there is not a specific calendar date that is 100% reliable. The best we can do is suggest a safe range of dates—in this case from mid to late April.

How late in the fall can I still plant trees and shrubs?

August through September is generally fine. Once into these fall months, the tree heads toward dormancy, but the roots are still growing. That’s why it is important to fertilize your trees and shrubs in the fall as well as in the spring.

Is it better to plant trees and shrubs in the spring or the fall?

Actually, you plant trees and shrubs from spring through fall, but fall is considered to be slightly better because of cooling temperatures and because plants can invest ALL their energies into root development, unlike other times of year when plants are investing in both leaf/bloom production and rooting.

Exactly how big of a hole should I dig for planting my trees/shrubs?

The general rule of thumb is to dig your hole 1.5 times as wide as the plant’s root ball or the container in which it comes and a few inches deeper than the root ball or container. This extra space is used for adding an amendment such as compost to enrich your soil.

My soil doesn’t seem very good—is there anything I can do to make it better?

Yes, add a soil amendment such as Cotton Burr Compost or Peat and Sheep to your soil as you plant your trees and shrubs. We also strongly recommend that you apply mycorrhizae to the bottom and sides of your hole before placing your tree or shrub in it. Mycorrihizae enhances both root development and the plant’s ability to extract nutrients from the soil. We sell “MYKE” at Brady’s West, look for it in the blue plastic container.

How often should I fertilize my trees and shrubs?

Twice a year. Once in the spring (May) and again in the early fall (September). Spring fertilizing stimulates both leaf/bloom production AND root development. Fall fertilizing stimulates root development. Never fertilize a newly planted tree or shrub—instead wait until the plant has wintered over once and then fertilize in the spring and fall of the following year.

What do I have to do to keep my trees and shrubs alive and healthy once I’ve planted them?

Three things. First, make sure you water them regularly according to their specific water needs remembering that not all plants need the same amount of water. Second, make sure you fertilize them twice a year—once in the spring and again in the fall. Third, inspect all of your trees and shrubs for signs of disease, insect infestation, and for any necessary pruning (for shape and removal of unwanted or damaged branches and limbs). If you have a drip system, also inspect it regularly for damage and clogs.

I am not sure how to water my trees and shrubs—any advice?

Yes, lots of advice. Following planting, water shrubs with 1-2 gallons and trees with 2-4 gallons of water each day depending on size—the bigger the plant, the more water—each day for the first 30 days. In the second month following planting, you may cut back watering every other day, but with the same relative amounts of water. Keep in mind, though, that watering will vary to some degree depending on the plant’s specific needs and environmental conditions—plants require more water when it is hot, dry, and windy. As your trees and shrubs mature, they will need less water over time—but to ensure they will continue to grow and be healthy, they will need to be watered periodically, especially during our hot, dry summers. For shrubs, water 2-3 times a week with 1-2 gallons each time. For trees, apply 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter (as measured on the trunk 4” off the ground). Thus, a tree with a 3” diameter would get 30 gallons of water at each watering. Drought tolerant trees and shrubs can be watered less frequently but still using the same amounts of water.

Should I buy a containerized tree or one that is balled and burlapped (B&B)? Is one better than the other?

Many of our trees—shade and ornamental threes as well as conifers—are available in both containers or B&B. One isn’t really better than the other, but each has its advantages. A primary advantage of buying a B&B over a containerized tree is that it is larger and will have an immediate impact on your landscape. Although its root system has been cut, a B&B’s root system is still thick and will regenerate quickly after planting. A primary advantage of containerized trees is that they are smaller and thus easier to plant than a B&B—no special equipment other than a pick and shovel are needed. Containerized trees, although they have intact root systems, tend to dry out faster soon after planting, so they require more water than a B&B does. However, neither type of tree is better than another, it is a matter of personal preference.

If I buy a containerized tree or shrub, do I keep it in the container when it is planted?

No. You must remove the container before planting, and break up the root ball to stimulate root development. Planting the tree or shrub while it is still in the container will inhibit root growth big time, and may eventually kill it.

I am planting several trees in my yard, how much space should I leave between them? How close to my house can I plant a tree?

Here’s a good rule of thumb when planting trees in the same area or when planting a tree in the proximity of a building: Take the width of the tree’s canopy (at maturity) at its widest point and divide it in half. Thus, suppose you want to plant two Colorado Blue Spruce in the same area or single blue spruce near your house. At maturity, a Colorado Blue is about 30’ across at its widest point—so it should be planted 15’ or more from your house or about 30 feet from each other (2 times 15’ to allow for both trees to grow without overwhelming each other). When planting a tree close to a building, we actually recommending adding 2-3 feet or more to this rule of thumb to allow for walking space between the tree and the house. (This rule of thumb also applies to planting shrubs in the same area or next to your house.)

I would like to plant some trees in my yard to help block the wind. Any suggestions for which trees will work best for this purpose?

Yes. Conifers—needled evergreens—work very well for blocking wind. We recommend Colorado Blue Spruce, Piñon Pine, and Ponderosa Pine. Upright junipers such as Rocky Mountain juniper or Cologreen juniper also work well. With regard to Colorado Blue Spruce, there are several varieties that will also work well, for example, the Fat Albert Spruce. Ultimately, the final decision boils down to your personal preferences in terms of the confier’s height, color, and shape.

I would like to create some privacy in my backyard—should I plant trees or shrubs or both?

Ideally, especially in terms of overall visual appeal, a combination of trees and shrubs is always a good choice. Evergreens, both broadleaf and needled, are good choices because they will provide year-round color to your yard. In larger areas, Colorado Blue Spruce, Piñon Pine, and Ponderosa pine work well. For smaller areas, Cologreen juniper and Rocky Mountain juniper make nice privacy screens. Excellent privacy screens can also be created with broadleaf evergreen shrubs such as Siberian Pea Shrub and Mountain Mahogany but, other non-evergreen shrubs, such as Canadian Red Chokecherry, Buckthorn, or New Mexico Privet can also be used to make attractive hedges.